Pond Water Pumps
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bulletThe 1st commandment of pond water pumps is amps (amperage) equals money down the drain!
bulletHigher amps means more money down the drain,
bulletLower amps means saving more money.
bulletAmps x $100 = the cost per year (at a kilowatt-hour cost of $0.10) to run a pump.
bulletAmps x $500 = the cost per 5 years to run a pump.
bulletAmps x $1,000 = the cost per 10 years.
bulletThe 2nd commandment is if you are not using a Money Saver Pump™ you are spending 5 to 10 times more than you need to!
bulletWith a Money Saver Pump™ you dial your savings.
bulletIf you can save $ thousands of dollars per year by switching to a Money Saver Pump™, when would be the best time to switch? 
bulletNOW!

Pond water pumps are the most difficult part of pond design, especially for amateurs building their first pond: Unless they are using a Money Saver Pump™, which allows them to change the horsepower and flow rates by changing a dial setting, while they look at the pond.

Once you believe you know how much flow you want, typically 1 to 2x the size of your pond, the next factor you must determine is the dynamic pump head of your system. Then and only then can you choose a pump with the proper horse power. This calculation is difficult for the novice, and involves friction losses; caused by the water rubbing against the pipe, and during turns, while going through filters, UV lights, valves, unions, T's, etc. You also need to know the flow going through the piping system, and the pipe diameters.

One of the most ridiculous but popular mis-statements is, "you want low horse power and high flow". That is not how it works; high horsepower gives you high flow; low horse power gives you low flow. In fact low horse power can result in no-flow at all. When you see a pump that says "maximum pump head", that means any pump head greater than that will result in no flow at all.

Call or e-mail us for help in selecting your pump, pipe plumbing and filter system.

The missing factor in most water pump conversations is "dynamic pump head". Many would be experts don't even understand it, let alone know how to calculate it. Most people think that it means how high the water fall or fountain is, which is the static pump head, a small part of the dynamic pump head. Would you believe that the dynamic pump head of a 12' tall fountain, with a 1/2" tube running up it, can be 50 feet of pump head because of a long run of 1/2" pipe to the fountain, plus many 90 degree turns, and valves, etc..

Next, even with the proper horse power, your piping system limits how much flow you can get:

bulletDon't expect to get more than 1,800 gallons per hour through a 1 1/2" pipe without greatly increasing the pump head, see following table:

PIPE SIZE

MAX. FLOW GPM

MAX. FLOW GPH

1/2 " 3.5 210
3/4" 6 360

1

10

600

1 ¼"

20

1,200

1 ½"

30

1,800

2"

60

3,600

2 ½"

100

6,000

3"

175

10,500

Another questionable statement is made by people selling filters that are known to plug up. They say you must have a 2 speed motor, and backwash on high speed. They don't know anything about horse power, or the internal pipe configuration of the filter's backwashing process. They just hope that with higher horsepower on backwash, their filters won't plug up as fast, but they still will plug up.

Don't get me wrong about 2 speed motors, they are great, especially for economical operation during the winter time. It allows you to turn them on high when you have company or a party to show off your water features, and then run them on the more economical low speed setting most of the time.

Call or e-mail us for a water pump quote?

 

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